Introduction

The Cóndores circuit is a trek that connects the two most emblematic protected areas in the Maule region of Chile: the Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, which was made a national reserve in 1996 and then later became a national park in 2008, and Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay, created in 1996. Both areas aim to protect and conserve the species of flora and fauna that are native to this zone of the country.

The trail, which crosses the pre-cordillera and high cordillera of the Maule region, allows you to enjoy an astounding variety of landscapes and vegetation. Along the way, you will observe beautiful waterfalls, see volcanoes such as Descabezado Grande, lakes, thermal springs, forests, volcanic scoria, rivers and countless other natural sights, all of which make this circuit a classic route in the central zone of Chile.

Although this route is known as Circuito Cóndores, it is better described as a traverse which can be started in the Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay and ending in Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas, or in the other direction. The following description is of the first option.

Appropriate season

The best time of year to complete this route is between January and March, when the snow has melted at the highest points of the route. However it is still possible to visit between November and April, but this means crossing various large snowfields during the higher part of the trail. In winter Conaf restricts access to the route to protect the safety of visitors.

Access

Depending on where you decide to begin the traverse, you will need to start from either Molina or Talca. Both options are described below:

Molina - Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas / Sector Parque Inglés

Private Transport

From the town of Molina, approx. 212km to the south of Santiago, follow route K-175 heading southeast leading to the town of Radal. After approx. 27km there is a turning south (right), and the signpost shows that this is the way to the park. From this point onwards the road is gravelled. Follow this road (K-275) for approx. 20km until you come to the Conaf guardpoint in the sector Parque Inglés. It takes approx. 1h from Molina.

Public Transport

From Molina, approx. 52km to the north of Talca, there are two bus companies (buses Hernández and buses Radal Siete Tazas) which depart from the Bus Terminal in Molina and take passengers to the park. During the summer the buses run more frequently and in winter they depart just once a day. Furthermore, in summer there are daily buses from Curicó.

Talca - Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay (Vilches)

Private Transport

From the commune of Talca (see here how to get to Talca), follow the road to San Clemente (route 115 or the international route to Argentina via Paso Pehuenche). After approx. 36km from Talca you will come to a signposted turning to the left (east) which leads to Vilches. The road is asphalt at the start and towards the end it is gravelled. You will pass through various sectors including Vilches Bajo, Salto del León, and finally you will arrive at Vilches Alto (approx. 26km). Here there is a gate which is open from 8:00 to 17:30, and then it is chained shut until the following day. Go through the gate and continue along the road for another 2km until you come to the Centro de Información Ambiental Conaf (Conaf Environmental Information Centre). Only 4x4 vehicles can drive the last 2km; if you do not have a 4x4 vehicle you can park just before the gate. It will take approx. 1h-1½h from Talca.

Public Transport

From the bus terminal in Talca there are daily and regular buses to the village of Vilches Alto. The times of the buses are constantly changing, so call beforehand on (71) 2243270. The cost of the bus ticket is CLP$1600 (approx. USD$2.50) per person. The bus journey takes 2h and leaves you approx. 3km from the Centro de Información Ambiental Conaf.

Permits / Prices

The Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas is open all year round. In summer it opens at 8:00 and closes at 19:00; in winter it opens at 8:00 and closes at 17:00. The entry fees to the park are as follows: adult CLP$2000 (approx. US$4), children up to 12 years old and senior citizens over 60 years CLP$1000 (approx. US$2).

The Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay is open all year round from 8:00 to 18:30. There is an entry fee and if you stay in the park you pay the camping fee separately for each night you stay. Costs below are for the season 2015-2016.

Entrance fees:

• Chilean adult CLP$2500 (approx. US$4)
• Chilean senior citizen (over 60 years old) CLP$1200 (approx. USD$2)
• Non-Chilean adult and Non-Chilean senior citizens CLP$5000 (approx. US$7)
• Disabled adult CLP$1200 (approx. USD$2.50)
• Chilean child under 6 years old free
• Chilean child CLP$1000 (approx. US$2)
• Non-Chilean child CLP$2500 (approx. US$5)
• Disabled child free

Camping cost:

• Chilean adult CLP$3000 (approx. US$4)
• Chilean senior citizen (over 60 years old) CLP$3000 (approx. USD$4)
• Non-Chilean adult and Non-Chilean senior citizens CLP$3000 (approx. US$4)
• Disabled adult CLP$3000 (approx. USD$4)
• Chilean child from 6 to 11 CLP$1000 (approx. USD$2)
• Chilean child from 12 to 17 CLP$3000 (approx. USD$4)
• Chilean child CLP$3000 (approx. US$4)
• Non-Chilean child CLP$3000 (approx. US$4)
• Disabled child free

Accommodation / Facilities

• In Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay there are three camping areas run by Conaf: Antahuara campsite, the campsite by the route to Enladrillado, and the refuge Valle del Venado. All campsites have toilets.
• In Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas you can only camp in the refuge El Bolsón which has bathrooms as well. 
• You can find bathrooms in various Conaf guardpoints and offices.

Recommendations

• Pets are not allowed in the protected areas.
• Lighting fires is not permitted in the protected areas, you are only allowed to use gas stoves.
• Ensure to check the weather forecast beforehand to be prepared.
• You will be able to obtain drinking water from the many streams and rivers which you will cross along the route, but always ensure to have at least 1 litre of water per person.
• In the area of Valle de las Vegas Blanquillo, you will have to ascend across the wetland towards the volcano to be able to find a source of drinking water without minerals.
• When you come the guardposts in each protected area, ask them for the bus timetables and where the buses leave from, and make sure to leave early enough to get there on time to catch the bus.

Gear

• Camping equipment (tent, sleeping bag, stove and cooking equipment, sleeping mat)
• Head torch
• Trekking boots or high-ankle boots.
• Windbreaker / warm clothing
• Basic first-aid kit
• Camera (optional)
• Food for an extra one or two days.

Schedule

Starting from Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay

1. Talca – Campsite en route to Enladrillado
2. Campsite en route to Enladrillado – Vegas El Blanquillo
3. Vegas El Blanquillo – Vega Las Yeguas
4. Vega Las Yeguas – Molina

Starting from Parque Nacional Radal Siete Tazas

1. Molina – Vega Las Yeguas
2. Vega Las Yeguas – Vegas El Blanquillo
3. Vegas El Blanquillo – Campsite en route to Enladrillado
4. Campsite en route to Enladrillado – Talca

Remember that on both itineraries there are various other places where you can camp along the way, and hence make the days a little shorter than those described here.