Appropriate season

Between October and March. Best of all are the summer months, since in spring the already changing weather is specially unstable in this mountain, whose summit, owing to its predominant height, usually covers up in clouds before the rest of its neighbors.

Access

From Santiago, take the road which takes to Cajón del Maipo. Once past the police post at San Gabriel (at the end of the paved road), follow on to Baños Morales, located on the northern side of the El Volcán River. From Baños Morales, keep going on along the road which leaves the village towards the East along the norhtern side of the river. This road winds over the southern slopes of Punta Ventana and finally turns North and enters the beautiful valley of the Morado River. Here the road levels and after crossing a couple of streams, it is possible to reach the end of it, depending on the road´s state (it may be blocked with snow or boulders) and on the vehicle (a 4x4 is best, though not a must).

Approach

From Baños Morales or wherever one is able to get by vehicle, it is a long walk to the Loma Larga Glacier´s moraine. During the hike, Cerro Arenas is left behind to our right, and cerros Unión, Mirador del Morado and Morado to our left. The first bivouac is done near the base of the route. It is here, at the beginning of the route that the first difficulties are encountered, in the form of an ice fall, See photo 1 (4000m aprox.)

The climb

At the foot of the Ice Fall (See photo 2), it is possible to overcome the first seracs by a short (20 feet) climb on excellent ice. Climbing the Ice Fall will take 3 pitches among ice blocks and crevasses. This section, although not too exposed, is very tiring. Once on top of the Ice Fall, one reaches another obstacle called la Trampa (the Trap), which corresponds to the bergschrund between the Ice Fall and the upper slopes. The second bivy is donde here, just before la Trampa. La trampa (See photo 3) is an enormous crevasse some 50 meters wide. The bottom of the crevasse (visible bottom) is covered with piled ice blocks that have fallen inside. These ice blocks form a natural bridge which allow to cross the crevasse. At the moment of the author of this description´s ascent, the ice blocks were more stable to the right; this may change every season.

The route goes on up a penitente field (depending on the season and on how advenced it is, there may or not be penitentes), which doesn´t require technical climbing. After overcoming a few more crevasses, an ice wall called el Cerrojo (the Lock) is reached. El Cerrojo can be avoided by the right, passing right beneath it. This obstacle is overcome easily. The penitente field is 350m long. Following a soft slope to the right, the route starts to steepen until reaching a bergschrund, which is overcome with a simple rope pitch. From this point an ice slope can be clearly seen somewhat higher. This ice slope is known as the Pendiente Delta (Delta Slope), which connects with the Pilar de los Vientos, the summit ridge.

The Pendiente Delta (See photo 4) is 150 meters long and has an inclination of 60º at the bottom, and up to 75º-80º at its exit. The slope is traversed diagonally to the right until reaching the ridge. At the end of it there is some climbing gear left by previous parties.

Once the Delta slope is climbed, the long summit ridge called Pilar de los Vientos must be followed. Some 100 meters above the Pendiente Delta there is a site situable for the third bivouac.

The route being very clear from here on, the ridge must be followed straight up, the inclination being of about 70º. There are in this area rests of previous bivouacs. 250 higher the route´s greatest obstacle is encountered, a rock arete called El Escorpión (The Scorpion), VerFoto5. This section demands a pitch and a half of rock climbing with difficulties of 5.9 - 5.8 YDS (See photo 6). Two chimeneys go up this arete. The left one should be followed. Inside it, some climbing gear, which shouldn´t be trusted, might be found. Continuing up the Pilar de los Vientos (See photo 7), and 300 meters above El Escorpión, is the site where the authors of this description made their fourth bivy, some 100 meters below the summit. Continuing up a 60º slope, whose inclination slowly decreases, the final 100 meters are covered, thus reaching the South Summit, also called "Cúpula de los Vientos".

The descent is done by the normal route. From the summit, walk 60 meters along the summit ridge towards the West, where some couloirs coming from the north face reach the ridge. It takes four rappels to descend by any of these couloirs to a scree slope from where the Mesón Alto Glacier may be easily reached, and where the descent connects with the normal route. Once on the glacier, climb down any of the accesses to it (see routes Estero Cortaderas or Paso Ventana). It is also possible to downclimb along the route of ascent. So it has been reported by several teams.

Recommendations

The traverse across the Mesón Alto Glacier should be done with caution. It has many crevasses which could be hidden, which makes roped travelling absolutely necessary.

The conditions of the climb up Mesón Alto´s South Face may vay dramatically depending on the season, to the point that two descriptions of the same route may appear to be talking of very different routes. Thus, this description should be taken just as a reference. It is each team´s duty to foresee the route´s conditions and to be prepared for the unexpected.

Gear

Proper clothing and shoes

Bivy gear

Helmet

2 50 meter double ropes

Crampons

Harness

1 belaying/descending device per climber

2 ice tools per climber

Climbing rack according to the team´s skill. Suggestion:

• 5 friends of varied sizes
• One stopper set
• A few pitons

6 - 10 ice screws

Corresponding carabiners and slings

8 cordines de 6 metros para rapeles

4 snow pickets

Ascenders - optional

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago - Bivy 1
2. Bivy 1 - Bivy 2
3. Bivy 2 - Bivy 3
4. Bivy 3 - Summit
5. Cumbre - Bivy 4 (Normal Route)
6. Bivy 4 - Yeso Dam - Santiago

Schedule 2

1. Santiago - Base of the route
2. Base of the route - Base of El Escorpión
3. Escorpión - Summit - Bivy
4. Bivy - Yeso Dam - Santiago

These schedules are merely referential. Final schedules will depend on the route´s condition and on the climbers´ shape and skill.

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La ruta estaba en muy buenas condiciones, con cascadas y canaletas todavía bien formadas en la parte inferior y penitentes practicables en la parte superior. Pero con las altas temperaturas de los últimos días, es de esperar que las condiciones de hielo y nieve empeoren rápidamente.

Clima ideal, sin viento e isoterma 0 a las 4500 m.

Al escalar el escorpión se cerró con mucho viento y neblina. Llegamos tarde asi que hicimos un pequeño vivac bajo el escorpión. Al siguiente día atacamos cumbre un dia hermoso muy exigente con mucha nieve blanda, tuvimos que escalar la ultima sección entre nieve y roca de mala calidad. La bajada por el glaciar simplemente único!