Appropriate season

There are essential elements to consider: good and stable weather; wall as dry as possible. These two conditions would leave February to mid March as the best months.

Access

From Santiago take the road which takes to the Portillo ski center, that is: drive by route 57 towards the city of Los Andes and from there, take route 60 up to the abandoned Hermanos Clark train station, located just before the "Cuesta de Caracoles". From Santiago to Hermanos Clark it´s about 135 kms and two hours by car. From here, take the dirt road that heads East and that goes into the Juncal River valley some kms.(+/- 20 minutes), until it reaches some old construcions where a police post existed until some years ago, the Tenencia de Carabineros de Saladillo (2.400 masl), just at the confluence of the Juncal River and the Navarro River. This place is also known as "La Yesera".

Approach

At the ex-Tenencia de Saladillo starts, along a well trodden trail, the approach to the mountain´s base. The first part descends down to the Navarro River, which it then crosses by a narrow but firm wooden bridge. From there on the trail starts gaining height as it penetrates into the Juncal River valley, going South by its East side, until it reaches a great plain covered with bofedales called Vega Nacimientos (2.750 masl. Estimated time: 3,5 hrs.) This is an attractive place for setting up base camp, since it has a breathtaking view of the spectacular North Face of the Alto de los Leones, although it has the inconvenience of being within herding grounds, which accounts for the water to be somewhat polluted, though there are also some fresh water sources. VerFoto4.

There also exists the possibility of setting up the first camp somewhat more inside the valley, just at the feet of Juncal´s North Glacier´s moraine, in a place just next to a little stream and from which the magnificent panorama of the Juncal´s glaciers and the Leones´ North Face may be enjoyed. To reach this place, though, it is necessary to cross the Monos de Agua River (10-15 minutes from Vega Nacimientos) which, past noon, may be a pretty big torrent. Besides, between Vega Nacimientos and the before mentioned place there´s more than an hour of extra hiking. Verfoto4.

The climb

See photo 1 See photo 2

From base camp up to high camp 1 (CA1) (4000m) it is 4 hours. This section progresses among scree slopes and rock. The scree, intertwined with lots of rock, are pretty steep, but allow for a safe march. With heavy packs the ascent can be exhausting. The place for high camp 1 is on the upper border of the small "Leones Northeast" Glacier, below a section of overhanging wall. About 200 mts. to the right there is water source. CA1 is a true stone house, a deluxe location. There is enough space for a three person tent, which rests protected in every sense by the wall´s overhang.

The next day is dedicated to climbing the lower half of the wall up to high camp 2 (4700m) in 5 hours. It is recommended to use whatever remains of the day to explore the wall, in order to progress quickly the next day. It is the author´s opinion that it is not recommendable to climb the whole face in a day: the climbing is tiring and hard; one shouldn´t wear out, the hanging glacier demands plenty of energy reserves. Heavy packs make the climbing awkward, in some points it is necessary to haul them; it is a very assuring thing to have a backup point at midwall; from it, the summit may be reached with relatively light gear.

At mid height in the wall, there is a good place for a second high camp (CA2), broad and rockfall proof. It is just at the end of a notorious scree slope. Just next to the campsite there is rocky peak, which serves as reference point visible from below. The site of CA2 isn´t visible from below. It also allows for a three person tent to be pitched. The views from this place, almost 2000m. above the valley, are impressive!

In general terms we have to mention that the major difficulties lie in the lower half of the wall. On numerous occasions it is necessary to search right and left to find a feasible pass. For the same reason, it is advised to leave some trace or marks (stone piles or similar), to make the way down easier. In general, it is not easy to find the way up; the critical points should be well memorized for the descent; doing so takes time. Above CA2, the terrain gets easier.

The third day after leaving base camp is spent in climbing the upper half of the wall, up to the col (5100m) in 3 hours, and climbing to the summit (5400m) by the hanging glacier in 3 more hours; descent to CA2 in 4 hours. Just above CA2 is one of the most complicated rock parts. It is a 6 meter section which should be investigated the previous day so as to not lose valuable time on the summit day. During the descent this part well deserves a rappel. It isn´t until reaching the col that the impressive hanging glacier is seen See photo 3; it is convenient to begin this part of the climb very early in the morning. The glacier presents many crevasses, small and big; an experienced climber will always find his way through, but it takes time to search for the correct pass.

Getting on the glacier from the rock doesn´t present serious difficulties, except that of having to take a deep breath when seeing the glacier for the first time! The glacier´s slope is fairly moderate. Three sections on the glacier might be distinguished See photo 5:

the first, just leaving the rock from the wall, at 5100 masl, is initially flat and then has a gentle slope, crevasses are visible and few.

the second section is relatively the most difficult, with slopes of up to 30 degrees, and two or three serious crevasses, including a bergschrund. This section is in the zone which surrounds the notorious rocks at the right, half way up the glacier; for this same reason, the route up the glacer, in this part, tends to go somewhat more to the left - where the glacier falls to the Cajón de los Leones.

the third section, already above the notorious rocks, is distinguished by a diminishing of the gradient. There are one or two big crevasses, but finding the way through presents no major difficulties.

Fourth day: descent to high camp 1 (5 hours) and base camp (another 2 hours).

Recommendations

It is recommended to have a rope or cord for hauling the packs on the more technical parts of the route.

It is possible to get to the old Hermanos Clark train station by bus and then walk the 8 kms. of dirt road to ex -Tenencia de Saladillo in 2 or 3 hrs.

Take sandals for the river crossing. The crossing of the Monos de Agua River is achieved by jumping some big rocks somewhat upstream from where the trail reaches the river. It is possible that the jump be too long for somebody or that the river brings too much water. In this case, walk upstream up to where the depth is less, but getting wet will be unavoidable.

Arriero José Tobar : he provides mules and horses during the summer months. The only way to contact him is personally at his home (ex –Tenecia Saladillo) and he needs at least a week´s notice. He charges $10.000 per animal/day. Arriero Luis Astudillo may also be contacted. He works in the Hermanos Clark station area.

Gear

Proper shoes and clothing for high altitude mountaineering

Climbing rope

Harness

Helmet

A light rock climbing rack

Utility cord for rappeling

Ice axe

Crampons

Gear for crevasse rescue

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Los Andes - Base camp (CB)
2. CB - CA1
3. CA1 - CA2
4. CA2 - Summit - CA2
5. CA2 - CB
6. CB - Los Andes

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Condiciones primaverales terreno mixto y cascadas de hielo temperaturas cercanas a los -20 el día de cumbre 

Comenzamos el día 18 de octubre llegando al CB 

Desde el 19 hicimos 4 campamentos para el quinto día hacer cumbre y bajamos a los andes 

El pronóstico nos marcaba el quinto día de precipitación cayendo 3cm aproximadamente de nieve y día de cumbre despejado con vientos de alrrededor de 60km/h constante y ráfagas de 70km/h