Appropriate season

Between December and March. However, San José´s altitude and location make it a frequent victim of clouds and sometimes even evening storms. It is advisable, then, to descend early from the summit and to be prepared in case staying at a high camp.

Access

Following the main road which travels along Cajón del Maipo, a few kilometers past Lo Valdés (Km 70) and just after passing Cuesta de los Afligidos (a small hill), the road crosses the river to its north side at the Colina bridge. Just after crossing the bridge you will find some rough constructions made by arrieros, next to a big rock. That´s the place for parking and stretching for the last time before 3 or 4 days of backpack carrying.

Approach

Before starting, note that the volcano is behind a mound: it is Morro Negro (black mound), which must be circled See photo 2. From this point, follow the 4x4 trail that goes round Morro Negro in direction opposite San José. The trail is pretty clear, and after a half hour of rocky landscape, the volcano reappears, together with Valle de la Engorda (feeding valley in spanish), which extends placidly towards the east and whose first meters covered with abundant grass well deserve the name. At the beginning of the valley there is a small bridge which crosses the Engorda stream. One naturally tends to cross the stream much further inside the valley. If you miss the bridge, it will be necessary to take off your shoes. After crossing several minor water courses you will arrive at the foot of the south creek (note that there is also a north creek) See photo 1, by which one starts gaining altitude. After reaching a first green terrace, the trail goes on winding through the grass and then turns definitely toward the south, where, at the border of the same stream you one has followd since the beginning of the creek, appears among the rocks the small but comfortable Refugio Plantat (3130m)See photo 5. It takes less than three hours of good walking to reach this point. See photo 1.

The climb

From Plantat the trail climbs to the following camp (C1) among hard snowfields (depending on the season). Following the trail in northeast direction, after more or less 5 hours, you will pass near the glacier, and then head up along a sort of wide couloir of low grade. About half an hour past the glacier you will begin hearing water running over the rocks. This place is at 4200m and there are some pathches with no snow suitable for pithcing the tent (this is the last place with running water). On the next day you will have to cross a small penitente field and then climb the ridge which starts a bit to the south and which heads east, See photo 3. Once on the ridge the crater comes again into sight, closer now. From here on there are many places for pitching the tent (C2) next to the trail, but it is better to continue walking until reaching the snowfield. From here the summit is reached in less than 5 hours See photo 4. The trail is now very marked: it continues up the ridge and avoids the glacier, passing above it. The appropriate place for camp 2 is a bit before the trail mounts on the glacier, which means the third day is not too demanding. The pass looks real close, but don´t be deceived: the way across the glacier is pretty long. Later the trail dissapears beneath the snowfield (what we call the glacier is rather its upper prelude, a snowfield with some ice, but pretty even), which must be crossed in order to head definitely toward the pass and summit. After an hour walking level along the pass, you will finally start climbing the truncated cone which leads to the summit. This section takes also more or less another hour. Just before reaching the crater, you will start feeling and smelling some sulfurous emanations. At 5770m the situation is confusing: what looks like the summit toward the south is really the northern edge of the crater. It is not until reaching this false summit that the real one is finally seen in southeast direction, together with the fantastic glaciated crater. After circling the crater in less than an hour, the summit, the glory and the fame are finally reached.

Recommendations

San José is famous for being "puna" prone (puna is high altitude sickness). Drink plenty of water during the whole journey. At the last camp, whichever itinerary you choose, you will have to melt snow.

You can do with no crampons from the beginning of December on. There´s just the crossing of the snowfield before reaching the pass, but an ice axe will do.

Do not give for granted there will be space for sleeping inside Plantat.

Take food for an extra day at high camp. The weather high is pretty changing.

Start the summit bid very early. It reduces the chances of being caught in bad weather.

All the area surrounding the crater is very exposed to the wind.

The descent from the summit is very fast. Do not wonder if we say it takes only half a day.

On the way back, go to Baños Colina (hotsprings): the entrance costs $3.000 and you deserve it.

Gear

Proper high altitude camping gear.

Proper high altitude clothing and shoes

Ice axe

Crampons (if climbing before December)

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago – Plantat
2. Plantat – High camp (+/- 4.500)
3. High camp – summit – Santiago

Doesn´t require an extraordinary performance, just being in good shape. Campo alto recomendado es al final de la arista que conduce al nevero, en alguno de los últimos sitios disponibles.

Schedule 2

1. Santiago – Plantat
2. Plantat – C1 (+/- 4.200)
3. C1-C2 (+/-4.800)
4. C2 - summit - Santiago

Normal itinerary.

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Acceso a agua líquida en gran parte de la ruta. No fue necesario el uso de crampones ni piolet durante nuestra ascensión (mediados de febrero). 

En el «collao» ubicado de a los 4000 aprox, hubo un desprendimiento de material, por lo que algún montañista generosamente instaló una cuerda para atravesar de manera más segura (nada muy complejo).

Presencia de nieve desde los 3400m hasta los 4400m lo que evita gran parte de acarreos. Es posible evitar cruce de glaciar a 5400 ya que hay pequeña abertura de tierra en este.

Ruta en buen estado, seca. Hasta plantad es posible encontrar agua, desde desde los 3.100 hastas 4.200 m.s.n.m nada de agua. 

Desde este punto de 4.200 se debe conseguir agua de los neveros.

Se recomienda acampar como ultimo campamento a los 4.500 al lado

La ruta fue:

Cabrerio - Plantat

Plantat - 4100m

4100 - 4800

4800 - Cumbre - Plantat

Desde el Planat hasta los 4800m encontramos mucha nieve, lo que nos retraso un día la ascensión.

Si ocupas el track de la ruta NORMAL a la altitud de 4.300 tender hacia la derecha cruzando penitentes  subiendo por la ladera sur (exposición norte) y no adentrarse a la izquierda (norte) como lo sugiere esta ruta debido a que tendras que caminar sobre glaciar. Muy técnico y peligroso en la epoca que fuimos. (sugerimos el track de wikiexplora - dic 2020)

02-nov-2020 - De Cabrerio a Refugio Plantat, con apoyo (porteo con mula), ruta sin nieve. 

Desde Ref. Plantat en adelante, ruta con nieve y penitentes en gran parte de los tracks.

Algunos tramos en roca, sobre 4.000  y +areas de campamentos: secos en su piso.

Campamento 1, a 4.500 msnm con agua. viento en la  noche.

Días despejados, con viento solo en las noches.

06-nov-2020, camino a la cumbre, con cruce de 370 metros por glaciar, después por la huella en acarreo.

Cumbre día 6 de nov.2020, con viento sobre 80 k/h, T° -12°C (aprox.), e inmediato temporal de nieve y viento.

Descenso inmediato a campamento 2. Al día siguiente, descenso hasta Cabrerio.

Buen clima, bastante nieve. Hubiese sido mas rapido o fisicamente un poco mas fácil ir con raquetas.

Ruta en buenas condiciones, muy seca eso si. Ascenso en 3 dias, muy buenas condiciones de tiempo, buena temperatura. Vientos con rachas a velocidad de 50km aprox desde el crater y en la cumbre.

La ruta normal, muy poca agua y la poca que había muy sucia, logramos cumbre los 10 integrantes desde Cabrerio hasta el mismo lugar 4 días. Somos integrantes del Club Andino Puente Alto.

tuvimos una climatología excelente, mucho viento en la cima