Appropriate season

Commonly, the area of the Nevado Juncal enjoys good weather between October and March, though it is recommended to climb it during the months of December and January. This because important sections of the route pass over the north facing glacier, thus, it is permanently exposed to high temperatures, giving shape to very big "penitentes". These can get to be as high as 2 meters towards the beginning of February, making the route very tiring and awkward.

Access

From Santiago take the road which takes to the Portillo ski center, that is: drive by route 57 towards the city of Los Andes and from there, take route 60 up to the abandoned Hermanos Clark train station, located just before the "Cuesta de Caracoles". From Santiago to Hermanos Clark it´s about 135 kms and two hours by car. From here, take the dirt road that heads East and that goes into the Juncal River valley some kms.(+/- 20 minutes), until it reaches some old construcions where a police post existed until some years ago, the Tenencia de Carabineros de Saladillo (2.400 masl), just at the confluence of the Juncal River and the Navarro River. This place is also known as "La Yesera" See photo 2.

Approach

At the ex-Tenencia de Saladillo starts, along a well trodden trail, the approach to the mountain´s base. The first part descends down to the Navarro River, which it then crosses by a narrow but firm wooden bridge. From there on the trail starts gaining height as it penetrates into the Juncal River valley, going South by its East side, until it reaches a great plain covered with bofedales called Vega Nacimientos (2.750 masl. Estimated time: 3,5 hrs.) This is an attractive place for setting up Camp 1, since it has a breathtaking view of the spectacular North Face of the Alto de los Leones, although it has the inconvenience of being within herding grounds, which accounts for the water to be somewhat polluted, though there are also some fresh water sources. VerFoto3.

There also exists the possibility of setting up the first camp somewhat more inside the valley, just at the feet of Juncal´s North Glacier´s moraine, in a place just next to a little stream and from which the magnificent panorama of the Juncal´s glaciers and the Leones´ North Face may be enjoyed. To reach this place, though, it is necessary to cross the Monos de Agua River (10-15 minutes from Vega Nacimientos) which, past noon, may be a pretty big torrent. Besides, between Vega Nacimientos and the before mentioned place there´s more than an hour of extra hiking. Verfoto3.

The climb

Once on the moraine of the Juncal North Glacier, one must advance enough to be able to fit on crampons and continue safely along the glacier´s cleaner zones. During aproximately 4,5 hrs it is necessary to march on an almost flat ice surface, having to jump, every once in a while, true rivers that run over the ice. Camp 2 is located at the base of the slope which rises from the eastern border of the glacier (3.670m) See photo 1.

The journey between camps 2 and 3 is, probably, one of the toughest of the ascent. To get to Camp 3, follow the trail which climbs up from Camp 2 and that, after more or less 1,5 hrs, reaches the rock cliff situated beneath the base of the glacier which runs parallel to the Juncal North Glacier. Here it is necessary to fit on crampons and traverse across a steep and very hard snow field, but ONLY until reaching the middle of the snowfield, since at that point begins a section of rock climbing-crawling indicated by green arrows painted on the wall See photo 1. this section is pretty is exposed, so special care is required. Once overcome this part, the base of the before mentioned glacier is reached. This glacier is quite exposed to rock fall, so it is advised to cross it as early as possible, avoiding the hours of greatest exposure, which are around noon.

The ascent of the glacier begins with some crawling on hard ice that, although not difficult, should be undertaken carefully, since it is traversed by several thin crevasses. Somewhat higher up, there is a bergschrund at the base of the couloir that takes up to Camp 3, and which is crossed by a solid snow bridge at the western border of the couloir. And to finish the day, one must ascend up an extraordinarily loose scree which separates, by 100 meters, the end of the couloir from Camp 3 (4.850m ; 9,5 hrs. of march) See photo 4.

The site of Camp 3 is small, exposed and inhospitable, See photo 6, but it has a superb view, specially to Cerro Aconcagua, to the Alto de los Leones and the Chilean and Nevado de los Leones summits of the Juncal. From this camp it is already possible to go for a summit bid, though it may also be done from a higher camp situated at 5.600m.

The route to the summit continues along the snow couloir that ascends up the South side of the rock wall behind Camp 3 and which connects the Juncal North Glacier with the North face of the mountain (gradient +/- 45°). During the couloir´s ascent a couple of crevasses must be crossed and permanent attention should be payed to rock fall and ice fall (the latter from the seracs at the end of the couloir.) Overcoming this section takes aproximately 5 hours (without loads) and gives access to the lower part of the mountain´s North face (5.500m), from where the Main Summit is visible for the first time. From this point coninue up the glacier towards the North Ridge (1,5 hrs.), and then up the scree to the summit (2,5 hrs.) In total it´s more or less 9 hrs. from Camp 3 to the summit cumbre (with only a light pack), effort which is justly rewarded by the magnificent view that it offers See photo 5.

The descent from the summit to the lower part of the Northeast face takes 1 hour. The descent of the couloir, another 3 or 4 hours. From Camp 3 to the ex -Tenencia Saladillo it is possible to descend in one long and demanding 9 hour journey.

Recommendations

Between the ex-Tenencia and Vega Nacimientos there are streams nearly every hour aproximately.

It is possible to get to the old Hermanos Clark train station by bus and then walk the 8 kms. of dirt road to ex -Tenencia de Saladillo in 2 or 3 hrs.

Take sandals for the river crossing. The crossing of the Monos de Agua River is achieved by jumping some big rocks somewhat upstream from where the trail reaches the river. It is possible that the jump be too long for somebody or that the river brings too much water. In this case, walk upstream up to where the depth is less, but getting wet will be unavoidable.

Arriero José Tobar : he provides mules and horses during the summer months. The only way to contact him is personally at his home (ex –Tenencia Saladillo) and he needs at least a week´s notice. He charges $10.000 per animal/day. Arriero Luis Astudillo may also be contacted. He works in the Hermanos Clark station area.

There exist some alternative camp sites: (a) below the cliff just underneath the green arrows section (alternative Camp 2), (b) High Camp at 5600m and (c) on the summit ridge.

Gear

Proper shoes and clothing for high altitude mountaineering.

Adecuate camping gear

Helmet

Trekking poles

Ice axe, ice hammer (optional) and crampons.

Gear for glacier travel: harness, normal and locking carabiners, utility cords, 2 snow pickets, 2 ice screws and a rope.

Equipo de travesía sobre glaciar: arnés, mosquetones con seguro y sin seguro, cordines auxiliares, estacas de nieve (2 por cordada), tornillos de hielo (2 por cordada) y cuerda.

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago- Camp 1
2. Camp 1 – Camp 2
3. Camp 2 – Camp 3
4. Camp 3 – Summit – Camp 3
5. Camp 3 - Santiago

Very demanding schedule: 5 days.
Must be in good shape and acclimatize quickly.

Schedule 2

1. Santiago – Camp 1
2. Camp 1 – Camp 2
3. Camp 2 – Camp 3
4. Camp 3 (acclimatization) or Camp 3 – High Camp
5. Camp 3 or High Camp – Summit – Camp 2 or 3
6. Camp 2 or 3 - Santiago

Normal schedule: 6 days

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La ruta hasta los pies del glaciar es clara por un sendero muy bien marcado por las personas q trabajan en el lugar 

Día 1 : Est. Hermanos Clarck - CB (Morrena glaciar)

Día 2 : CB - C1 (3.800 msnm)

Día 3 : C1 - C2 (La montura 4700 msnm)

Día 4 : Aclimatación 

Día 5 : C2 - CUMBRE - C2

Día 6 : C2 - Estación Hermanos Clarck



El tiempo nos acompaño durante toda la ascensión, la ruta esta bien descrita. Es factible atacar la cumbre desde el C2 4700 msnm en una jornada, salimos 02:00 hrs e hicimos cumbre a las 08:50 hrs. (Total 6 hrs. 50 ')

Los anclajes principalmente del tramo C1 - C2 y C2 - CUMBRE son principalmente penitentes y algunas rocas de mala calidad. 

-El camino pasa literalmente al pie del glaciar, hay rocas con anclajes para ayudar la cruza del río Monos de Agua

-Cuidado con las grietas escondidas en los penitentes de la canaleta entre C3 y cumbre

-Pasamos por arriba del glaciar para lograr al filo (foto)

-De vuelta, se puede rapelear con penitentes en la fase de hielo duro entre C3 y C2 

-Muy buenas condiciones

SI bien fuimos avanzados ya en la temporada (finales de enero y febrero en otros años esta todo sequisimo y casi sin nieve), dado a que el invierno se atraso, nos tocaron las condiciones ideales. Habia bastante nieve, lo cual facilito y agilizo mucho la subida. Flechas verdes por ejemplo, estaba cubierto, por lo que nos ahorramos la pasada de rocas. Casi nada de penitentes a la subida, aunque si bastantes a la bajada tras el calor de esos dias. 

Solo tuvimos que pasar una rimaya, ubicada poco mas arriba del camp del espolón y antes de llegar al glaciar mismo, la cual aseguramos solo de bajada. El glaciar se enontraba con pocas grietas abiertas y muy seguro. Muchisimo viento en el acarreo final, unos 60-65 km/hr. 

Ruta realizable en 4 días, sin embargo recomiendo al meno tener 1 extra dado a la posible inestabilidad climática. Nosotros nos propusimos realizarlo en 5 para no correr y finalmente terminamos con 6 dado que el día de cumbre salieron vientos de 85 km/hr. 

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