Appropriate season

Aconcagua has been climbed all year round. However, winter ascents are exceptional, specially those by routes other than the most popular ones. From the end of November to the beginning of March the weather is fairly decent. Among these, the best months are those of January and early February, well known for their relative stability. Nonetheless, a mountain like Aconcagua maintains a certain quota of impredictibility concerning the weather, indepent of the time of year.

Access

From Santiago, take the international route to Mendoza upto Paso Los Libertadores. Past the argentine customs office there´s a place known as Puente del Inca (Inca´s Bridge, 2700 masl), equipped with a few food stands, an hotel and a military regiment. It is also here that the warehouses of the agencies which provide animal transportation are located. 10 minutes from Puente del Inca is the entrance to the Aconcagua National Park. It is here that the two day hike upto to base camp "Plaza de Mulas" begins.

Approach

From the park entrance it takes 3-4 hours to get to the first camp, known as Confluencia (Confluence. It is here that the stream which comes down the south face joins the Horcones river). The hike takes place along a road which later transforms into a light trail. In Confluencia there are many camping sites and there is even an “infirmary tent" and another “fast-food tent” where hamburgers and drinks may be purchased. The second day is a long 6-8 hour journey which takes to base camp “Plaza de Mulas” (mulas = mules). The first part of this hike follows the main trail until it enters the vast Horcones riverbed. For a long way, mostly without gaining any altitude, numerous brooks must be jumped over, sometimes even the river itself, which, even though it doesn´t carry much water, does have a very strong current. The last hours take place along a trail which winds over the slopes of Aconcagua´s west face until reaching base camp.

The climb

Plaza de Mulas is an extense plane at the foot of a beautiful mountain called “El Cuerno" (The Horn, 5462 masl). In summer the landscape is decorated with many multicolored tents, which contrast with the umber tones of the neighbouring mountains See photo 2. It is a good place to acclimatize to altitude (4500m) since, besides allowing for adecuate nutrition and hidration, provides the company of a great international comunity. Some few hundred meters from this place is located the Refugio Plaza de Mulas, where it is possible to play table tennis and table soccer, besides from getting a good night´s sleep and nice meals.

Once acclimatized our goal will lead us to higher camps. There are many intermediate posible camp sites, but many of them lack the presence of water (or snow). It is recommended then to advance upto high camp “Nido de Cóndores” (Condor´s Nest, 5400 masl)See photo 3, which is a spacious place and has snow, though it has the disadvantage of not offering adecuate shelter from the wind and, because of the uncountable expeditions that have already been here, isn´t quite a clean place... Between base camp and Nido de Cóndores it is 4-6 hrs along a large and loose scree slope. From this last camp it is possible to observe various sections of the route to the summit, the route being hidden at times by the rocky northeast arete. The route turns east and passes behind a rocky section for later returning to the center of the north face to cross the high part of the "Gran Acarreo" (Great Scree Slope) See photo 1. Above Nido de Cóndores exists another established camp site(campamento Berlín, 5700m) where there is also a wooden shelter See photo 4.

The summit bid may start at any of these high camps. The route goes along aa easy and well trodden trail, except for a couple of hard snow fields that must be crossed. Finally, once the Gran Acarreo is crossed, the trail ascends up what is called “La Canaleta” ("The Couloir") See photo 1, where the incline is somewhat strong and the size of rocks requires some scrambling. From the col between the east and west summits, only some minutes remain in order to reach the main summit See photo 5. The summit bid takes aproximately 8-12 hrs, depending on the fitness and acclimatization of the climbers. It is recommended not to stay on the summit beyond 2 p.m., since the descent takes a long while (4-5 hrs) and this allows to reach high camp with daylight.

Recommendations

It is possible to get to Puente del Inca from Santiago by one of many bus transportation companies.

Consider more than one possible summit day, since weather may change suddenly and bad spells may last several days.

Take thermos to avoid water freezing during the summit bid and in high camp.

Gear

Full camping equipment

Clothing suited for high altitude

Trekking poles

Thermos

Ice axe and crampons (optional, for those seasons in which the route is heavily covered with snow)

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago - Puente del Inca
2. Puente del Inca - Confluencia
3. Confluencia – Plaza de Mulas
4. Plaza de Mulas (acclimatization)
5. Plaza de Mulas (acclimatization), alternativley hike to high camp and back
6. Plaza de Mulas (acclimatization and rest)
7. Plaza de Mulas – Nido de Cóndores
8. Nido de Cóndores (acclimatization)
9. Nido de Cóndores – summit– Nido de Cóndores
10. Nido de Cóndores – Plaza de Mulas
11. Plaza de Mulas - Puente del Inca
12. Puente del Inca – Santiago

Obviously this schedule may change according to the experience, fitness and acclimatization of the climbers.

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Mucho acarreo pero buena.

Hicimos cumbre despues de 11 dias , desde camp Colera a la cima tardamos 9 horas . Sacando el viento en Colera y la zona de la Travesia , el clima fue bueno tambien el dia anterior y posterior al de la cumbre. No hizo falta utilizar crampones, ni piolets.

Cumbre alcanzada el 27 de Dic/2019. Buen clima en la cumbre, no tanto viento y despejado.

Ruta en buenas condiciones, mucho acarreo suelto y desprendimiento en el último tramo. Desde Independencia fue necesario el uso de Crampones.

Tempo bom, pouco vento ou nenhum e frio entre -1 a 5º C no cume.

Mucho viento , nieve y frio en el primer intento. La cumbre se consiguio en el segundo con un clima mas benevolente.

Condiciones de ruta: desde Plaza de Mulas con nieve.

Tiempo: Horcones-Cumbre 5 días.

Tiempo atmosférico: Tormenta eléctrica muy baja y cercana pasamos en Canadá.

Durante un año me preparé para hacer esta cumbre en un ascenso super rápido 

Tormenta eléctrica subiendo desde plaza de mulas. Acampamos en Canadá por seguridad, llegamos un día domingo a plaza de mulas y el día miércoles estuvimos en la cumbre, al regreso descansamos en los 5500 msnm al sgte dia plaza de mulas para luego subir el Cerro Bonete en modo Sky running marcando el récord de ascenso y descenso. 

Luego en modo trail running directo hasta horcones . Ayayyyyyyy como disfrutaba corriendo en las bajadas 

Condiciones difíciles: nieve desde los 5.000 mts, mucho frio, viento de 55+km/h y sensación térmica bajo los -35°C

Ingresamos el 1 de diciembre al parque y el 10 estabamos en la cumbre con un dia espectacular.  Desde Nido a la Cumbre 8 hrs. La Ruta muy marcada pero igual no hay que confiarse.