Introduction

Introduction

The Alto de los Leones, with near 5400m of altitude and located in the Blanco River basin, has aroused the interest of mountaineers since many years ago. The famous Federico Reichert, whom explored and climbed many mountains in the area, specially dedicates a paragraph in his chef-d'oeuvre ("Auf Berges und Lebenshöhe", pg. 252):

"Heading North, our eyes are caught by an apparition of fascinating aspect, caused by the rustic architecture and sombre colors of the towers of Cerro Los Leones, situated at the other side of the divortium, in Chilean territory. In the form of featureless and inaccessible walls, this magnificent mountain rises, dominating the whole Chilean Juncal Valley, like a giant obelisk. Protected on almost every side by vertical walls of more than 1100m of height, the Cerro Los Leones, which ranks as symbol of the chilean preandean planes, will never lose its virginity, since the accessibility of its summit seems to lie beyond the limits of what is possible".

Clearly, the limits of what is possible have been pushed quite a bit since the times in which Reichert took pleasure before such wonder. Nevertheless, the Alto de los Leones has withstood very few assaults since, and even less have been those who have gained its summit.


Chronology of ascents

First absolute ascent:

Frederic Marmillod, Dorly Marmillod and Carlos E. Piderit. April 11, 1939. Climbed up the Northeast Face.

First ascent from the Leones River side (Southwest Face):

Gino Cassasa and Alejandro Izquierdo. February 18, 1979.

Other ascents

By the Northeast Face (original route):
One ascent in February, 1942.
Three ascents in March, 1951.
Sixth ascent: KH. Winter and U. Lorber, February 18, 1959.

Secondary summits

The Alto presents two secondary summits, both along the ridge which connects the Alto de los Leones with the Nevado Juncal (Alto de los Leones´ Southeast Ridge).To June, 2002, both summits remained unclimbed. According to their altitude in the IGM 1:50.000 map, these summits may be identified as P5217 and P5166.