Introduction

Introduction

Almirante Nieto is part of one of the most famous mountain groups in Patagonia and on Earth, the so called Paine Massif. Located in the southeast end of the massif, Almirante Nieto has two summits: an east summit, the highest, and a west summit, characterized by the great granite wall that it shows on its west face.

Next to it, to the North rise the well known Torres del Paine and to the West the incredible Cuernos del Paine, Máscara, Hoja and Espada. Its being so surrounded by such magnificent granite spires has caused Almirante Nieto to remain somewhat unnoticed by park visitors; however, if observed closely, it is possible to note that this peak is, maybe, the most varied of the group. All of its face are different and make it seem a different mountain; from the East, its most well known face, just in front of the Laguna Amarga park entrance, it shows a pretty slim and and white shape, with a huge hanging glacier which comes down from the main summit to the Southeast. From the South, it presents itself as a black bulk of sedimentary rock with jagged spurs, crossed only by an enormous glacier which comes down practically from both summits and which, in the deep of its eroded walls, seems to be a huge frozen waterfall. From the west, a vertical orange granite wall has made this part of the peak one of the most photographed; on sunsets, specially in summer, it shines with yellow, orange and red tones. Finally, from the north, it is a strange sight; the granite walls get together with those of sedimentary rock and with the snow couloirs which go up between jagged ridges and turrets.

Despite being one of the less spectacular peaks of the massif, today it is the most climbed, due to its relatively low technical difficulty. Even so, the sole Patagonian weather makes this mountain an interesting project, besides from it being the best spot from which to look at the Torres and the southern part of the park. It is important to mention that most of Almirante Nieto´s faces still have unclimbed lines only waiting for mountaineers who especially enjoy mixed climbs on rock-ice-snow.

Toponomy

The first reports about ascents in the Patagonian Andes come from the writings of Salesian priest Alberto María De Agostini, who in 1931 and 1937 was is in the Paine massif together with German doctor Gustav Fester and some mountain climbers. In the 1937 expedition, Hans Teufel and Stefan Zuck, from the Bayern Alpine Club, attained the East Summit, via the northeast face. They baptized the peak Almirante Nieto. There are numerous theories which try to explain this. One of them says the Germans would have called it likewise in honor of the man who interceded in their favor for obtaining the necessary climbing permit. Another one sustains that Sr. Nieto helped these climbers reach the region. Finally, in 1898, Francisco Nieto Gallegos, admiral of the Chilean Navy, would have sailed up the Seno de Última Esperanza and then up the Serrano river until seeing the Paine massif. Seemingly, this man was the first to photograph the massif.

Additionally, this peak is also called Paine Chico and/or Paine Este.

Climbing permits

From the year 2002, Torres del Paine National Park charges no climbing fee for any of the peaks within its boundaries. An authorization is required for whatever climb and must be obtained at the park Administration. However, everyone must pay the usual entrance fee. Climbers members of the Federación de Andinismo de Chile are exempt of the entrance fee upon showing their corresponding identifications. Non chilean climbers must obtain an additional permit at the Dirección de Fronteras y Límites de Chile (DIFROL); the requirements for the permit are published in the section "Autorización de Expediciones".