Appropriate season

Between October and March. The more into the season, the less snow there will be in the last part of the route, making it less physically demanding.

Access

On the main road that winds into Cajón del Maipo, 2 kms. after San Gabriel, is the place called Romeral (which is nothing more than a couple of houses and some mining machinery). There one must take the dirtroad which leaves left toward the northeast following the Yeso River. A little after km. 12 (there are signs every 2 kms. at the side of the road) and after a long, rising slope, but before the stream that crosses the road a little past the slope, is the place where one must start walking.

Approach

The hike starts climbing up the little hills which are to the right (southeast), until reaching a plateau (there is no trail here). The plateau is covered with some small bushes and a little stream crosses it to the east. Continuing in southeast direction, one reaches Placetas Altas, also called "chaparrales" See photo 2. From here, climb steadily up the soft slopes and in southeast direction until reaching a small creek along which runs a well marked trail. Inside the creek there is a stone parapet.

The climb

It takes more or less two hours to reach the beginning of the creek. It is very difficult to get lost here. Altitude is gained very quickly, and there is always running water very near the trail. A little before reaching the cirque that will offer us multiple alternatives for continuing the ascent, a rocky peak becomes visible: do not mistake it for the summit, which is several hours behind such false summit. At the base of the cirque there are some good campsites. There is water, but the place doesn´t offer much protection from the wind. From here it is also pretty unclear as to which is the best way to continue the ascent on the following day.

The ascent continues up the same stream that was being followed the previous day, See photo 3, in direction to a small pass between two rock promontories. The pass will probably be covered with snow (crampons might come in handy early in the morning). After a while one finally comes into sight of what remains, the true massif appearing toward the east, See photo 4. After an hour walking one passes next to some small rock "fingers". Here we face a scree slope, but the way to go is pretty clear: always in east-northeast direction. Once the scree is overcome it is the turn for the main difficulty of the route. The last 150 mts. run along a steep ridge of bad rock which demands some scrambling and easy climbing See photo 5. The summit isn´t visible until just a few meters before it. Extreme care should be taken during these last meters.

The descent is done via the same route.

Recommendations

Even though there is no need for climbing gear, one must feel confident during the last meters of the route, and not too tired. Otherwise it is best to turn back. A fall into the Morales valley will remain untold.

Likewise regarding crampons. Although at the end of the season they are not absolutely necessary, an ice axe is a must, since several hard snowfields must be crossed. In spring crampons are required.

There is a summit log. Take paper and a pencil.

Although Placetas Altas is an excellent campsite, we do not recommend it, since it is too near the road and leaves a very long journey for the next day.

Gear

Camping gear

Proper shoes and clothing

Ice axe

Crampons (optional depending on the season)

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago - Camp at base of the cirque
2. Cirque - Summit - Santiago

Note: picures taken in December, 2001.

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Cerro más físico que técnico, requiere dos jornadas largas, los gateos se presentan un poco antes de la cumbre teniendo solo un paso de escalada fácil sin requerimento de cuerda, cerro con arta exposición presentándose en  el filo que va hacia la cumbre la cual presenta  caída de material  por lo cual hay q ir con precaución.

A pesar de haber nevado hace menos de una semana la aproximacion estaba mayoritariamente seca, la zona de campamento y la canaleta estaban muy cargadas de nieve facilitando la progresión hasta la zona de los fingers de roca, el acarreo estaba seco y era bastante agotador subirlo, la canaleta hacia el filo tenia buena nieve para la progresión, el filo cumbrero estaba muy cargado habiéndose formado neveros de hasta 90° en ciertos lugares lo que sumado al viento, la mala calidad de la roca y lo laberintico del filo lo hacia una escalada bastante expuesta, recomendamos llevar arnés, equipo de escalada, una cuerda y cintas para rapeles. 

No quedaba mucha nieve, pero la suficiente para subir cómodamente el canalón y la continuación de la ruta hasta superar los "dedos" de roca. En el filo, la roca estaba mayoritariamente seca.

La ruta estuvo  exigente y requirió mucha concentración. Comencé a subir a las 3:45 am por la canaleta que se hace después de la quebrada de acercamiento. Arriba me encontré con lugares muy expuestos, habían muchas cornisas, realice escalada en diversos lugares de la ruta con roca descompuesta, lugares con bastante pendiente y neveros espuestos. Subí toda la ruta con crampones y un piolet mixto lo cual fue indispensable para esta época. El día de cumbre estuvo muy frió, -25 a -30 la sensación térmica ademas bastante viento que me acompaño todo el día. La ruta es bien engañosa tiene muchas antecumbres , pero antes de llegar a la verdadera cumbre quedas sorprendido. El último tramo realmente se impone de una forma maravillosa. Lleve cuerda de 30 metros, mas equipo de escalada. Finalmente en la bajada demore su buen tiempo.  Llegue a la cumbre a las 12:15 hrs aproximadamente y llegue a nuestro cb (2700 aprox) a eso de las 18:00 horas