Appropriate season

From December to March is the best season, though Leonera is easily climbable during the entire year. In winter, one has to go prepared to face extreme climatic conditions. The wind chill on this mountain leads to extremely low temperatures as the climber is very exposed to the north wind.

Access

Take the Camino de Farellones, following the road to the La Parva Ski area. At the highest point of the paved road in the village of La Parva, continue uphill on the dirt roads through the ski area. Hike, or if the roads are usable, drive, to the highest point (sector Piuquenes) of the ski area, which is located just below the pass between Cerro Franciscano and Cerro Falsa Parva. From the beginning of the Camino de Farellones it takes approximately one hour and a half to two hours to drive to the pass, which is at 3450 meters.

Approach

From the pass, climb Falsa Parva, and in doing so, reach the ridge of peaks that culminate in Leonera. This part takes less than one hour, and goes via whichever routes zig-zag up Falsa Parva (there are many on the east or west side of this peak). Once you reach the summit of Falsa Parva, follow the trail of very gentle incline that leads in the direction of Cerro Plomo. From Falsa Parva (3740m), in less that 20 minutes one reaches and starts to go around Cerro La Parva (3970m), which is located to the right side of the trail. Later comes Cerro Pintor (4220m); the trail skirts to the left of the summit. In total, between the pass and Cerro Pintor, the hike requires between two hours and a half and three hours on average (without a large pack; with a large pack, multiply the time by a factor of 1.5 or 2). From Cerro Pintor, you descend toward an extensive and open plain known as Cancha de Carreras. See photo 4. Just in the middle of this plateau runs a small stream of water, and is the optimum and classic place to camp (no more than 30 minutes from Cerro Pintor). When one camps enroute to Leonera, the weather can be quite variable and can delay mountaineers. Nevertheless, this does not present much of a problem, as there are many places along the route that serve as good campsites (flat areas sheltered by piled stones), and an attack of the summit from whichever point is possible. The only precaution that one must take in very dry years is that it is difficult to find water and snow, making the selection of a campsite more difficult.

The climb

From Cancha de Carreras it takes about four hours to reach the summit. At the beginning, one follows the same direction toward the end of the Cancha de Carreras, where it is necessary to cross a kind of "bridge" which is very narrow, if you compare it to the rest of the ridge line that we have crossed to this point. On the left side, we can see huge cliffs. From here, one must take much care to not lose the trail; it is easy to make a mistake in the middle of a rocky area. Generally, it is preferable and safer to follow the route as far right as possible; toward the left the drop-off is very steep and very exposed. Once you get through the rocky sector, you reach a higher level of a corridor of cliffs that cross the west of the peak. From here, follow the ridge that passes below and to the left of the last sector of rocks which you then leave towards the top, See photo 3 (the last sector of cliffs visible from here) crossing, from time to time, areas of penitentes (spike snow formations). After going past the last cliff bands, turn toward the right (toward the north), while the direction of the rocks continues along your left. From the final sector of rocks, the summit is visible, below which one encounters a hollow normally covered in snow that one must cross. Later, one ascends following the trail which climbs the ridge that leads to the summit (it is approximately 100 meters of altitude gain from the flat snowy area). There are two options: follow the trail that circles the summit to the northeast and access the summit via a route less steep and exposed (we recommend this route); or follow the trail that leads directly to the summit via a very exposed trail of loose rock.

The summit

The summit is small and very exposed to the wind. From here you have a tremendous view of the glaciers of Cerro Plomo (there is no better viewpoint) and towards Cerro Altar and Cerro La Paloma.

Miscelaneous

Cerro Leonera is climbable via many of it's flanks and ridges. Nevertheless, no route offers more additional attractions than the normal route, since the shape of the mountain is fairly regular. For those that like long and exposed ridges, the ridge that falls toward the sector of La Hoya is perfect. (See photo 2)

Recommendations

Bring a very good jacket and protection against the wind.

Do not attempt this climb alone.

During dry summers, bring extra water.

Gear

Good boots, jacket and windbreaker

Schedule

Schedule 1

1. Santiago-Summit-Santiago

To make the summit in one day, you must have resistance to altitude sickness and good physical condition

Schedule 2

1. Santiago-Cancha Carreras
2. Cancha de Carreras-Summit-Santiago

This is the traditional method.

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Buen estado de la ruta, se encuentran todavía un par de neveros por los cuales es necesario pasar, pero la huella ya esta super marcada sobre ellos. Lo anterior ya es ya rumbo a la cumbre pasado el ovnipuerto. 



En el CB (Cancha carreras) aun es posible derretir nieve de algunos neveros cercanos para obtener agua.

Acampamos al lado del refugio del Parva donde ya se encontraban numerosos manchones de nieve para abastecerse de agua. Si bien había que cruzar algunos manchones más largos, la ruta está bastante marcada por el alto tráfico y no fueron necesarios crampones. Pasadas la 1pm aparecieron las nubes que limitaban la visibilidad

Tremendas vistas de los andes centrales, un clásico, sendero muy marcado, lindo día.

Mucho frió y viento. Algunos minutos en la cumbre contemplando el paisaje y para abajo. 

Viento y frío en la cumbre.

Mucho viento, un poco de nieve y bastante frío. En la bajada se nubló, poca visibilizad.  

Pasos de roca en buen estado, poco viento. 

Ruta sin necesidad de crampones. Algo de viento en la cumbre.

10 horas ida y vuelta desde el refugio de uchile.  tramos con nieve a la rodilla y otros sin nada de nieve 

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Nos demoramos 3 horas desde la mitad de cancha de carreras hasta la cumbre y 2 en bajar. Frío por la cara donde se ataca la cumbre y una pequeña trepada que puede pasar desapercibida que lleva a una ruta hacia federación